Shoe sewing machine



Oct 5, 1943- J. GouLDBouRN l-:TAL 2,331,118

SHOE SEWINGv MACHINE 1 mi add ral ...F e e h S 24 wMM/OMM87MMW 7 656,0,..0653 mw 7 ,l 9 n/v l//l/l 4 3 rl fil/0 w.. 7, mi@ fin 0 /i/ 2 l m 0 /19 g 8 l 3 M 6 M3 2 3 F 0% uwm 5 9.2m@ 5. 37 2 8 8f. 3@ ,o el@ b2 5 $9 J.. 4 222 o 7 535 5/ 08 NW2/ Oct. 5, 1943. J. GouLDB'ouRN ETAL 2,331,118.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 20, 1939 15 Sheets-Sheet 2 @7 VM? l@ J. GouLDBouRN ETAI. 2,331,118

sHoE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 20. 1959 l5 Sheets-Sheet 4 w .mNr www ww www. xww .www www www Awww- Oct. '5, 1943. y J. GOULDBOURNETAL 2,331,118

` y `sHo'r: SEWING MAGHINE Filed May 20. 1959 1S sheets-Sheet 5 m a h Oct- 5, 1943. J. GoULDBoUN ETAL 2,331,118

SHOE SEWING MACHINE File'd May 20. 1939 15 Sheets-Sheet 6 M zess Oct- 5, 1943- IJ. GouLDBou-RN ETAL 2,331,118

SHOE SEWING MAGHINE 15 'sheets-sheet '1 Filed May 20. 1939 GWW J. GOULDBOURN E1' AL SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed May'ao. 1939 Oct.' 5, 1943. 2,331,118

15 Sheets-Sheet 8 'TM 'I WL' ness bia/M24 1 Oct. 5, 1943. .1.f GouLnsouRN ETAL SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 20, 1939 15 Sheets-Sheet 9 12914 Egg-! f ff zii-511!- Oct. 5, 1943. I .1. GoULDBouRN ETAL 3315118 I sHoE SEWING MACHINE y Filed May 2o, 195s 1s sheets-sheet 1o Figi Figlg 217 201 f 7% Oct. 5,11943. J. GouLDBoURN lE1' AL 4 2,331,113'

SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 2o, 193s 15 sheets-sheet 1i 0ct. 5, 1943-. UJ. GOULDBOURN ErAL sHoE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 2o, 193s 15 sheets-sheet 12 Inv Witness Oct. 5, 1943.i J. GouLDBoURN ETAL l 2,331,118.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE y med may 2o. .193s 15 sheets-sheet 1s Smc Sn C- 5 1943- J. GQULDBo-URN ETAL SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 20. 1939 15 Sheets-Sheet 14 OCL 5, 1943- J. GQULDBQURN rs1-Al.v 2,331,118

sHoE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 20, 1939 l5 Sl'xeets--Sheec.` 15 o ao 4o en ao mo zo 14o 16o wo' zoo 220 240 aso 26o soo 52o 40 aw P I /TKEUP naar) L ENRE TReno Ramsau n m M )lek A .Umano HELD- V y v N EPIDCK Patented Oct. 5, v1943 SHOE SEWING MlicHiNnf y A Joseph` `G,culdbourn and Thomas AubreyKestelgl,

Leicester, England, assignors' to" United ,Shoe

Machinery Corporation, Borough of '.li`lemin'g` ton,kN. J., a corporation. of New'Jerseyj. y Y

rinplannen May 20, 1939sria1 274,794 j In Great` Britain June 28, 1938 'f f 75 claims; (431.1112938), l

, The present invention is concerned with improvements in o-r relating to sewing, and Vto mechanism adapted for use rin sewing-machinedV and is particularly but rbygno means exclusively,

concerned with providing; for the improvedcon-` struction and operation of sewing machines of the type for sewing` a sole yto-ashoe' bottom by a seam passing through the lsole 4to the .side of the shoe bottom.'k The term",sho'e. is *used herein as indicating foot-Wear generally.lk .l

VThe invention is herein particularlydisclosed as embodied in a lockstitchfmachine ofthe socalled McKay Y type having a hook needle, a rotatably adjustable work supporting horn, andv a needle threading devicewithin the horn; I It is an object of the present invention .to provide a, novel and improved sewing machine of this general description' which is well adapted for efficient and accurate operation at very high speeds, and whichis Aso constructedand arranged as to permit a virtually:unimpededivisual ins of the several operating instrumentalities to secure a more compact and eiiicientarr'angement of the parts,1and to eliminate so far as possible the large` mass of `parts extending above the work. 'Features `.of applicants machine in accordance with the above notedv object include f a needle and awl `which are pivotallysupported on rearwardly' extending arms havingia substan` tial radius ofmovernent to cause the needle and awl to follow a substantially straight path through the work, andto cause the needle lto cooperate in an efficient manner with the rotatably vadjustable horn and needlev threading device supported therein. Theneedle, awl and kthread vtake-up motions of Vthe ,machine are derived from crank driven ylever and link mechanisms. y'Jther features of the inventionin accordance with the above noted object, vconsist in an improved construction 'and arrangement of'the work engaging instrumentalities tocause the'awl to feed the work. Specically,-the needle-and aWl are supporteda fixed distance :apart from c-ne another in the line of feed on a feed bracket which is pivotally supported f to causeV thelneedle andawl to move bacland forth inthe lineof feed,v ,In the illustratedl construction, the feed f bracket is mounted to turnabout a vertical pivot K located rearwardly ofi-ther `sewing, point, being advanced inthe line `of feed in timedrelation to the awl motion to causethe awlto feed the Work,

and-then. in a reverse direction toipositiorifthe. I

with the previously formedqawll needle Vin'` line 1101.

. 1A" further" object of- 'inventiongis conicerned4 with theprovisional", animproved arrangement f and modejof Yoperation kof' thethread handling k devicesl for use in yMcKay and similar. typejma-1 i' chines which do not have 'a' thread linger` orf` similar device forsupplying thread'to the needle duringits loop drawing `stroke,"and ingwhichit V is therefore desired topr'ovide such a supplyvof thread :to the "needle :from rthe preceding stitch.-

In .the lillustrativemachina the thread handling devices include a shuttle, a take-up, aY thread` measuring pulloff, and a pair of `thread locks bracketedon opposite sides of' the pull-olii;A The i thread handling rdevices are 4arranged 4to causey drawing l' stroke,V the .1, thread lock against ywhich the v stitch is set 4being' then opened ,to `permit the passing case. f l

- It isi-a further object ofthe inventio-nto'im# preve-the `con'structicm Vandrnode of :operatic/)ng of fthe threadhandling devices for setting y.the i *l previous stitch f' in this manner-v `to cause `Vthe stitchesfofk the seam* ,to be-se'tflrmly'-v andnac-ly curatelyj in the Work,"and-;without any tendencyV toward l-breal'zing vor` stranding of; the threadr -In accordance with this object, vrau feature `fofqthe` invention consists in a construction'andarrangement roi; ther stitch 'forming i and setting `devicesl including meansv arranged bduringthe `settingrof the previous stitch A'togprovide an accumulation of slack thread tothe supply sidevofthe thread lockagainst which j the stitch `is set," which is or looptaker'durng its` loop'drawingstroke. In the preferred constructiom such an accumulation ofslack threadjsprovided by-causingthe l thread measuring Ypull-offV to pull in `'an amount j ofthreadfin excess oithat required for the next stitch,:and thereafterto givevv up such additional thread;during and subsequent tothe settinggof the stitch. 4rFurther inaccordance with'theflast" noted object; a feature of'the invention `consists in a' constructionandarrangement of the:take.4

up toeause'the vtake-up rto exert a pull'onxthe needle thr'eadzpassing: to the .shuttle hook taker while-the .stitch is being s'et.- 'A In an alternative form of the invention,

ori loop prevmspstitch is ser bythe Shutue'againsrfa of vthe needle lcopover thefboblciny tinuously actua-ted to give up thread during the stitch setting operation, so that an accumulation of slack thread is provided which 1s immediately available upon opening of the stitch setting thread lock to be drawn upon by the shuttle durins its loopdrawing stroke- Another object of the invention is, to provide a novel and improved arrangement and mode of operation of the loop lifter or spreader for cause.v

ing the loop spreader to engage with and open the loop of needle thread drawn through the work. and to present the spread looptothe loop taker in a most eflicient manner, while .at the same time causing the loop spreader at all times to operate in a path which at no point. crosses the path of movement of the loop taker or shuttle, so that no possibility of injury can arise through mis-timing or faulty operation of the cooperating parts. Applicants improved loop spreader is pivotally supported to move in a general forward direction to engage with and open the loop of needlethread drawn through the Work, and to present the spread loop to the loop taker, said movement including a component movement latorally in the line ofv feed toward the needle to engage the loopspreader with the needle loop, and thereafter a component movement laterally in the line of feed away from the needle to present the spread loop to the loop taker. In

orderV to effect these movements, the loop taker ispreferably supported to turn on an axis located above and extending upwardly to the right at anangle of about 50 to the line of stitching and rearwardly at an angle of aboutv609 to said line. C

It is a'furtherf object oi' the invention to provide an improved construction and arrangement of the shuttle and shuttle raceway to avoid possibleinjury to the parts throughthe jammingv of thread in the shuttle raceway. A feature of the invention with the last noted object in view, contemplates the provision in a lockstitch sewing machine, of a shuttle rotatable to carry the needle loop over the shuttle, and a shuttle race yieldably supported to permit rotation of the race with the shuttle in the event that the shuttle becomes jammed in the race. In the preferred construction, cooperating cutting edges` are provided on the race and its supporting guideway to severfthe jammed thread portions. The supporting means for the shuttle race are further constructed 'and arranged to positively support .the

race` against movement in the reverse direction' from its normally stationary position, so that the parts may be readily re-positioned in operating position in the event that thread becomes jammed between the raceway and the shuttle, by manuallyrotating the shuttle in a reverse drection to reposition the race and to free the jammed thread portion therefrom.

It is another object of the invention to provide a novel and improved arrangement of the mechanism for adjusting the operation of the thread measuring pull-01T of the machine in accordance with the thickness of the work. In the preferred form of the invention, the extent of the movement of the pull-off ,is controlled by mea-ns of a power operated mechanism which is in turn controlled through a mechanical relay device adjustable in accordance with the setting of the presser foot and presser foot looking device against the work.

Further in accordance with the invention, aV

novel and improved pay-off mechanism is employed for insuring a ready and adequate supply ping and starting of the machine.

ance the objects last noted, one feature of of thread from the supply spool or cop. In the preferred form, this mechanism comprises an oscillating friction pawl acting against a cooperating friction surface supported to turn with the thread mass to rotate the thread cop in a payoff direction in timed relation t0 the thread handling device, and alternately to frictionally urge the thread mass in a reverse direction in order to take up any slack thread in the system.

Further objects of the invention relate to improvements in the mechanism for actuating and for controlling the operation of the presser foot during the operation of the machine, and in stop- In accordthe invention consists in the provision of mechafor locking the presser foot against the Work and for raising the presser foot during the work feed, constructed and arranged to permit the presser foot to yield a predetermined small distance from its locked position against the work in order to facilitate'tilting of the work by the operator to? effect any desired adjustment in the position-of the seam inthe work.

Another feature of the' invention consists in the provision of an improved control operable in starting and stopping the 'machine for moving the presser foot into and out of operative position.' The illustrated machine is provided with power means which is rendered operative in stopping the machine to raise the presser foot only after'themaohine has stopped, and operating. connections controlled from the starting treadle' of the machine, which are rendered operativefby partial movement of the foot treadle to engage the presser foot against the work, and by further movement ofthe treadle to start the machine, and by the releasing of the foot treadle fromeither of said positions, to render' said power-means operativeV to raise the presser foot independently-"of Whether the machine has actually been started. i

It will be understood that while the several features ofthe present invention are herein disclosed and are particularly applicable to a MCKaylockstitch sewing machine provided with El IQtthle' Work supporting horn, certain fea- 'Euren theinvention are of more general application to shoe sewing machines Vof other types;

and for operating on other than McKay shoes.

`With the above stated and other objects in View'. afi may hereinafter appear, the several featlile Q the invention consist also in the devices, combinations and arrangement of parts hereinitl decribed and claimed, which together with the advantages to be obtained thereby will be readily understood by one skilled in the art from the following description taken in connection withthe accompanying drawings, in which figure l is a right hand side elevation of the illustrative machine; Fig. 2 is a sectional elevation of a horn, shown disconnected, and driving mechanism of the illustrative machine; Fig. 3 is a section on the line 3 3 in Fig. '7; Fig. 4 is a front elevation, partly in section, showing takeup and thread locking mechanisms of the illustrative machine; Fig. 5 is a side elevation, partly in section, of a head of the illustrative machine; Fig. 6 is a plan view, partly in section, illustrating work feeding mechanism of the illustrative machine; Fig. 7' is asideelevation of the head of the 'illustrative machine; Fig. 8 is a View. looking inthe direction of the arrow B in Fig. 9, of a thread lifter mechanism of the illustrative machine; Fig. 9 is a View ofr the thread lifter mechanism looking in the'directonof. the arrow 9 in Fig. 7; Fig. 10 is fa frontelevation 'of the headA of i the yillustrativev machine; Fig. 11.is' a front elevation of the shuttle device of theillustrative machine; Fig.` 12 isa left handaside -elevation, partly in section, of the v'shuttledevice n said bobbin case; Fig. 19 is Ya "sectional view of thebobbin case yon`tlie`line |9-j-'|9 infFig. l5; Fig. 202 is a side elevation, partly in section",y of driving mechanism of theillustrative-machine for the" said shuttle device; Fi'glfZl is" an* end elevation of parts of the 'mechanism shown in Fig. 20; Fig. 22 is alright handsideelevation of part of a needle thread `measuring mechanism of the yillustrative machine in the" headof' the machine; Fig'. 23 is an invertedplanview, vpartly in section, of the mechanism"'shown-inFigL22;

Figs. 24 and 25 are diagrammaticl views vof some` of the parts shown in Fig. ZZYindiiTerentrelative positions; Fig. 26 is a" sideelevatinfof other partsof Vthe said needle thread measuring mechmism rsituated in thefcoiamn of mammina;

Fig'.'27is ay right hand side elevation, p 'a'r'tly'in section, of a lower portion vof the` yillustrative machine Villustrating `part lof vthe needleuvthread measuring mechanism and thread lock actuating l mechanism of the machine; Fig. 28 is V'a front` elevation of part'of the whirldriving,mechanisml of the illustrativey machine;-"Fig; 29 isa frontr elevation of the needle thread paying-off mech'- lanism of the illustrative ymachine; Fig."A 30 is a sectional side elevation of an oil filter of the il# lustrative machine; Fig. `3,1 is af'diagram illustratingthe relative timing of various parts'fof the illustrative machine; Fig. 32 is a rightrhand'y side elevation, partly in"4 section, of 'the clutch mechanism and two speed driving mechanism of the rillustrative machine; Fig, 33 is anelevationof a roller clutch ofsaid clutchmechanismj j Fig. 34 is an elevation.:partlyv in section, of some of the parts of the clutch mechanism l when viewed from the right in Fig. 32; Fig.v35 is aV` secy y tional plan View ofthe spring. plunger and its associated parts shown ir'1l5ig-32r ;"Fig. 936 isla face View of the parts shewn in Fig.`A v35, looking from fthe` right; Fig. 37 is a front elevation' 3 two belts to a double grooved'fpulleyon the motor.v The driving shaft hasfmounted on it between the pulley 9 and its forwardfend a clutch and a 'twospeed drivingmechanismof the kind described' in. the specicationy of f' United States Letters Patent No. 2,138,403; r Y

Thescolumn has securedto the frontfcf it a bracket 'I3 on which is Vrotatably mounted, on Ia verticalaxis, a shoe entering horn I5 .in theup;

per end of which is rotatably mounted'aneedle threading'whirl. Theforwardend ofthe driving shaft has rotatablygmounted on it a' bevel wheel II: (Fig.`32) which meshes with .abevel wheel |9 secured on the lower end of La vertical shaft 27| extending upwardly through the column and into the'head. i. Secured'on a vertical shaft.r 23k (Fig. 3)- above andzsplined to the shaftel. is a bevel.gearZFWhih-meshes with' a bevel gear 21' secured on the left hand end of a hori- Zontal crankshaft 29,' extending laterallyof the machine and rotatably mounted in the head 3. When viewed from the front of the machinethe driving shaft is at the/left of theraxis'. about which the horn rotates anda take-upgactuating shaft 3| (Figs. 2and 4) Yis rotatably mounted ink the column in frontvofand axially in linewith the driving shaft e 3| is drivenfin the. opposite directionto the driving shaft 'I by theaforesaid bevel gear|9 on the lower end of the vertical shaft 2| which' meshes with'a bevel gear 33 onlthe rear end ofthetakeQ'v Rotatablymountedv in the column at a sorne-y e. what higher-level 'than the driving 'shaft vand,V

a little atthe leftof a forwardly and-rearwardly? extending' vertical plane throughl kthe extended axis about which the horn rotatesis a horizontal forwardly and rearwardly extending thread-lock shaft 35' which actuates thread locks and athread measure "f the machine. j The'thread-lock shaft is drivenfbya spur gear-3lr on the-take-up shaft 3| which meshes with an idler `gear 39 rotatablyl mounted on a stud secured in the column. and a spur kgear 4I ony the 'thread lock shaft which' meshe s'with' the idler gear 39; The take-up kshaft3ll andthread *lock shaft35 therefore rotatefir'i'ithe'same directio'nl The thread-lock shaft 35v has securedfto it near" its 'forward end a bevel wheel 153"which'isivfconnectedv by meansA hereinafter ffd'esc'ribed vrto the aforesaid Whirl Vtc drive the latter in'..arr"anti-cloclnvise'directionY when viewed from above. fl

"The various.' shafts above referred to are all udra/ener;the samesped. -Aziheoked needle 45 CSI of an alternative take-up device randf.''thread locking arrangement for ythe V'illustrativefxnachine; Fig., r38 `is a diagram illustrating the relative, timing of ythe saidalternative` take-up device fand thread lockfarrangement; and Fig.- 39 is a4 detail View of the hand leverand-lateli shown in Fig. 5. '4 n The illustrative machinecomprise's/"a column I on the upperend of which is secured ahead 3 which supports various stitch forming and work feeding mechanisms of the machine.

The machine ,may be driven by means of an Velectric motorf5 enclosed'in the lower portion of the columnl or by abelt from a line shaft Y whichpasses around rfast and loose pulleys on'a drivingshaft 1 of thel machine. .The rdriving y shaft 'I has rotatably mounted on its rear end a double grooved pulley 9 which'is connectedby (Figs. 5 and Bief the imma/tive machine has a' lower' curved work 'penetrating portion, the radius of the lcurve cf the centre line of this r portion of 'the needle being aboutfive inchesf. kThe upper and straight endl portion of Sth'e needle is clamped in the forward end of'an. armr` 541 of needle bell-crank "lever 49 l(which extends for# wardlyjfrom the pivot portionof the lever)y by an eye bolt 5l through Which'the upper endportion* of the needle passes andwhich clamps one side of the stem of the needle in a V-groove extending upwardly along a'grfo'rward face 5a' #on the arm P41 of thefbell-crank'lever. 'The vlower portion fof the needle'is circularinV cross-section and the stem 'is square, two faces'ofthe square stem' being clamped against the sides 'of the'vgroove in thearm. k Thene'e'dle'is therefore'posi` tion'ed onthe arm and prevented vfrom 'twisting by the squared stem and V-groove The'face; Y

53jo`n the arm'IH in whichis formed the V-groove is inclined rearwardly and towards theright and.y

The take-up actuating 'shaft' the eyebolt extends at right angles tothis face towards the left hand side of the arm against which a nut on the lbolt engages'.

An awl 55 (Figs. 6 and 1) of the illustrative machine is secured in the forward end of a rearwardly extending arm 51 of an awl bell-crank lever 59 lying just atthe right of the varm 41 of the needle bell-crank lever. The lower portion of the awl .is circular in cross-section and the radius of the centre line of this portion is'about ve inches, the awl and needle swinging upwardly and downwardly towards the aforesaid work entering horn about the same axis, as will hereinafter appear. The upper portion or stem of the awl is curved similarly to the lower portion but is square in cross-section. The stem of 'the awl is clamped, similarly to the needle, by an eyebolt-SI in a groove formed in a face 63 on the. forward end of the 'arm 51 of the awl bellcrank lever,H which face extends rearwardly and to the left from the forward end of the arm. The lower portion of the awl is offset towards the left from the stem of the awl, i. e. it is nearer to the needle than the stem and this offset of the lower portion of the awll to its stem and the i arrangement of the inclined faces against which the needle and awl are secured enables their lower portions to bev positioned comparatively close together,

The needle and awl bell-crank levers are piv. oted, for movement about a common horizontal axis 65 (Fig. 7) to a feed bracket 61 (Fig. 6) which is pivoted on a vertical stud E9 secured .in the machine head rearward of theipivo'tal connection of the needle and awl bell-crank levers to the bracket and slightly to the right of the vertical plane in which the vertical axis of the shoe entering horn lies. r

The needle-bell-crank lever 49 has extending towards the left from its hub a sleeve 1| (Fig. 6) which is rotatably mounted in a bearingon the aforesaid feed bracket 61. The sleeve 1| is reduced in external diameter along its left hand end portion, which is within the bearing, and the reduced portion has threaded on it a collar 13 on the outer end of which is formed 'a flange 15 the inner face of which engages', the left hand end of the-bearing. The inner end of the collar is forced against the shoulder formedby the reduced portion of the sleeve 1| on the bell-crank lever by screwing it on to the sleeve 1| and the latter is therefore prevented from moving laterally by reason of the engagement ofthe lever with the right hand end of the bearing and the flange 15 Von the collar 13 with the left hand end of the bearing, The collar 13 has an inwardly extending circular face 11 between which andthe left hand end of the sleeve 1| on the-needle bellcrank lever is a small space-in which canV rotate a flange on a nut 19. The `nut 19 has threaded engagement with the threaded left hand endr portion of a spindle 8| which passes through and is rotatably mounted in the sleeve 1| and hub of the needle bell-crank lever 49. The aforesaid collar 13 which is threaded on the reduced end portion of the sleeve 1| on the needle bell-crank lever has extending to the left from the flange 15 on its outer end an .externally threaded sleeve portion 93 on which is secured by a nut 85 a forwardly extending arm 81, clamped against the flange 15 by the nut 85. The arm 81 is secured at its forward end to the left hand side of the needle carrying arm 41 near its forward end and affords support to the latter arm against undesired lateral movement. If the aforesaid nut 19, which has extending to the left a portion by which it may be rotated, on the spindle 8|, isrotated the spindle is. adjusted lengthwise in the sleeve 1| on the needle bell-crank lever and the awl bell-crank lever 59 which is secured on the spindle is thereby adjusted towards or from the needle bellcrank lever 49 to adjust the awl relatively to the needle. The nut 19 is secured in adjusted position on the spindle by a locknut 89 threaded on the left hand end of the spindle.

`The spindle 8| passes through the awl lbellcrank lever 59, which is secured to it and which lies just to the right of the needlebell-crank lever 9, and its right hand end portion is rotatably mounted in a second bearing on the aforesaid feed bracket 61. Secured onthe right hand end of the4 spindle 8| is a forwardly extending arm 9| the forward end of which is secured to the right hand side of the forward end portion of the arm 51V of the awl bell-crank lever 59. The forwardly extending arm 9| provides support to the forward end of the awl carrying arm 51 and prevents undesired lateral springing movement of the latter. The aforesaid feed bracket 61 is supported against up or down movement by faces 93 (Figs. 5, 6 and '7) on themachine head which engage the upper andl lower faces of lugs 94 on the bracket but allow the bracket to swing about the aforesaid pin on which it is pivoted.

The feed bracket 61 has extending to the left from itan arm 95 (Fig. 6) in the left hand end of which is a curved slot 91. Adjustably secured in the latter slot is a vertical stud 99 on which is pivoted the forward end of a rearwardly extending horizontal link I. The rear end of the link is pivotally connected by a vertical stud |83 to one arm |05 of a horizontal bell-crank lever |01. The bell-crank lever |91 is pivoted on a vertical pin |09 secured in the machine head and has a second rearwardly extending arm having mounted on it a cam roll I3 which enters a cam groove in a cam ||5 secured on the aforesaid vertical shaft 23. As the vertical shaft 23 rotates the cam ||5 causes, through the bellcrank lever |01 and link IUI, the feed bracket S1 to oscillate about the vertical pin 69 on which it is pivoted to feed the work'by means of the awl whenthe latter has been moved downwardly into engagement therewith. By adjusting the forward end of the link IUI along the curved slot 91 in the larm 95 on the feed bracket 61 the length of feed movement maybe adjusted. It will be understood that the awl and needle move together laterally during feed and return movements of the awl. YWhen the awl and needle are at the right hand end of their movement the needle is above the usual opening in the top of the horn andwhen the awl and needle are in this position the.A curvedy slot 91 in the arm 95 on the feed bracket is concentric to the pivot |03 of the rear end of the link. Adjustment of the forward end of the link along the slot 91 does not therefore affect the position of the needle relatively to the horn at this end of its movement. When the awl and needle are at the left hand end of their movement the awl requires to be above the opening in the top ofthe horn so as to bring the hole made by it in-,the work beneath the needle when the latter is in its right hand position. If the awl has been so positioned relatively to the needle that when it is at the left hand end of its movement it is above the opening in the horn and an adjustment of feed length is made by adjusting the forward end of the link |0| along the curved slot 91, an adjustment is also necessary of' the `awi lrelatively to the:y needle. In' other ypierces the work and when the work has been fed" .the awl may be moved down to penetrate 'the work fbefore it is moved 'upwardly out ,ofthe Words thefawland needle vmust 'ialways be one stitch length apart and thisfilsfeffected by adjusting the fawl relatively to'theneedle, by the .y means hereinbefore described, whenthe'length of feed is-adju'sted. f y' r'Ihe up anddownmovements of the needled f areefected by connections between the needle-L bell-crank lever`49 anda crank|3| Ton thev aforementioned crankshaft 29.- These 'connections comprise a short link I|9 (Fig; ljpivotallycon'- nected at its forward end by a balljoint to a second yupwardly and rearwardly extending arm I 2| ofthe needle bell-crank lever y|19; Therear end l of Ethe* short linkil I9 pisjpivotall'yconnected'by a and at its lower end is pivtally'connected to the forward end of a pitma'ri" '|29 whichextends more enrl The rear end of the' pitn'iaIZS is pivotally mounted onthe aforementioned crank I3I on thefc'rank shaft 29." About midway between its vendsr thepitman |29 is pivoted to the lower end I of'af radius armvr |33 which at its upper end is piv-.

W otedon'aehorizontal shaft |35 which is rotatable inthem'achine head. The" axesof the various pivotal connections between the needle bell-crank lever 549?- and the crank-IM all) extend laterally of themachine. As the crank |3| rotates the for-r ward end 'fof the pitman |29 moves in afclosed path' of such a shape ythattl'iey needle vis moved upwardly and downwardly andA is vcaused. to dwell work. i

-The illustrative machine has a thread lifteroi` loop spreader |55 which engages one legofthe j `loopof thread, i. e. that leg which extends downff wardly into the `work supporting normand moves l forwardly and upwardly toy spread thel loopy so thatia shuttlev beak, hereinafter describedjcan readily {enter'the loop. The thread lifter has" at its lower end a hook-arranged to'swing, forward-` ly and pwardlyf from a position rearward and slightly to the left of the needle, justfunderfthe needlepoint as the'needle is rising with the'loop of needlethread in its 'hook to engage the't'hreaid and vspread the loop forwardly and upwardly.

`Thethvread lifter |55,--(Fig`s`. "1, 8, 9 'andrlO' extends upwardly from its hooked lower endla'nd is secured' ina lever -|51 by a screw |59.21The i `lever I51is pivoted onafspindle whichis se# L curedin a" bracket I 63 secured on the headl ofthe "machine The spindle ISI when viewedfrom i` the fro'nt'ofA the machine, extends upwardly and towards'the rightlat an angle of about fift'yJ-"de-` grees to" a horizontall lplane below 'the spindleV and the spindle |6|, when viewed fromfthe'right A A y f v hand side Aof the machinaextends upwardlyfand or less horizontally rearwardly y:from itsforward dle' |6I causes the' hooked lower end of the thread lifter to move as it is swung'- forwardly and upw curved 4path when'viewed from above from afpol at the top and bottomof vvits {movementf for pvur-` Y v poisesfwhich willi hereinafter appear.

horizontal `shaft |45 'rotatably mountedin' thel machine head1.A The shaft |45 has securedonita secondarm'J 41 which extends downwardly yand y rearwardly!` and has'ipivotally connected to its lower end theVv rear end of a second and longer link |49. The `forward. endl of the 'link |49 is pivotallyy connected tothe forward'end of a pitman |5| the rear end ofwhich ispivoted on 'the awl actuating crank |31. The pitman |5| about midway of its length isjipivotallyf connected to the lower endi'of a radius arm'` |53 ',thefupper end of which is 'pivoted on fthe same shaft |35 as the aforementioned radius arm |33 .which is pivoted to theneedleactuating'l vpitmanjil29;I ,As the awl crank |31 yrotates thefforward end vof thepitman Ilmovesina closed path and causes,; through its ,connections to the awl-bell-cranklever-59, the awl vtov ino-ve vupwardly and downwardly andgto dwell at v.appropriate times ini the machine cycle.

- The @W1 ,during its, dewnward, movementfnearly sitionrearward and slightly 'to the left `oftlie needle towards theright and then'towards "the left tofl ai position in front of and slightlyto'the left ofy theneedle path. The barb of the-needle n is positioned about; twenty degrees lround ytothe i,

rightfrom the' rfront .of the'needle andthe move# ment of the lower hooked endof the threadlift-f er'frorn` its position at'the rear and left "of the needle towards the right as it swingsforwa'rdly moves `at this time in a path substantially at right anglesA to thek needle barb and thereforein a very favorable direction for engagingthe lengthof'thread extending from'the needle' into,

the horn. Further movement of the thread en 'A gaging end Of the thread lifter towards tlierigh't after it engages the thread carries the thread; lifter well out of the path of the shuttle beak as the latter is rising to engage, later, that length'of thread and thesubsequent movement of thread engaging 'end' of the'thread lifter towards theV y left during its continued forward movement places the length of thread'extending rfrom the needle tor the thread lifter-'fin a favorable'positionvto be engaged by the shuttle beak, rearward @rits tip, after the thread lifter has reached its, f-

most forward position.

f The lever |51 has pivotallyconnected toit the v forward end of a rearwardly extendingirord |65. The rod |65at its rear end is '-pivotally'conneeted to the* end of an arm |6`| of a bell-crankfllever |69 which is pivotedon a shaft |1I`,Ysec1ired`in the machine head,` parallel to the spindle |6|.. Another arm |13 of the bell-crank lever |69 *car-f ries a cam roll I 15 which engages in ay cam groovey I11 formed in a cam |19l secured onthe `erank`l` shaft 29 of zther machine bygwhich the'thread lifter is actuated. '1i 'i f i At theieft ofthe needle 451s rotary shcttie i 

